Thursday, July 26, 2007

Christoffel National Park in Curacao




This park provides a protected environment for a large number of rare species like the white-tailed deer, cottontail rabbit, orchids and more. There are ruins of former plantations Savonet, Zevenbergen and Zorgvliet and an Indian site where Pre-Columbian drawings can be seen. The first of these was originally founded in the 1660s and rebuilt in 1806 after being burned down by John Murray, a pirate working for the British crown. Crops such as peanuts and sorghum were grown there but now it is all natural vegetation. We saw a number of interesting birds including the Crested Caracara (Warawara). Sean, Sarah, Scott and I got there as early in the morning as we could as we had a tough climb ahead, around 1000 feet up Saint Christoffel berg. Our rental car agreement stipulated that this park and the Beach parking lot at the Mambo restaurant were out of bounds for insurance coverage. We decided to take a chance with the park. The park ranger was surprised at this, informing us that they had good concrete roads installed, but we decided it was the car's low horsepower combined with the steep long ups and downs that caused the problems. At one point three of us had to walk quite a ways as the car couldn't make a hill.

The beginning of the trail was somewhat shaded and had lovely views (above left) but the top section was very steep and hot in the sun. The top was such a treat with 360 degree views and a stiff breeze. The hike took several hours and we all decided to take our lunch break in West Punt at the Playa Forti restaurant. Sean entertained us by jumping off the 40 foot cliff into the sea, several times. Caught here in mid space below right and in the water afterwards on the left.


After lunch we went back into the park and drove around the north side by the plantation house, Boka grandi (a north coast bay and beach where swimming is dangerous), and the caves, home to nectar/fruit eating bats and some insect eating bats (up to 600 mosquitos an hour - YAH!). The red Indian drawings found here (and in Bonaire) are calculated to be between 500 and 2000 years old (picture below left). A distant view of our "mountain" is below right.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Sean's Graduation



Sean's graduation from Dartmouth was on June 10 and our party at Josh's house in Newton the following Sunday. The weather wasn't perfect on graduation day but spirits were high none the less. Sean loved his four years in Hanover but looks forward to his two years ahead as a fellow with the Public Interest Research Group either in Washington or Boston. He'll know which later this summer.
Our daughter Zoe, husband George and sons Nicholas and Thomas flew out from California (picture below left). Scott's brother Brent, wife Wilma and her daughter Swandy came from NJ and my sister Paula from Maryland. Everyone is shown in the group shot below right.
After the wonderful party and family get together at Josh and Michal's home, Zoe and her family came up to Vermont for a visit. Nick and Tommy enjoyed the new tractor, walks and visit to the lake. We had a ball watching them.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Home in Vermont




We love our sailing life but we miss our family and friends back home a lot. Luckily we are able to return twice a year to catch up with everyone. This year we flew back in the middle of May and returned July 9th. During our months sailing from the Eastern Caribbean along the Venezuelan Coast to Bonaire and Curacao we sold our home in Vermont and bought another one. We left a power of attorney with our lawyer and instructions to pack and move us out of the old home and into a storage unit. The day after Heather flew back we moved into the new house over three days. We still had a lot of our posessions from our former home in Brookline in yet another storage facility in Massachusetts. Our son Sean helped Heather pick out furniture, mainly couches to fill in. It was a crazy busy first week back, but at the end of it, we had a most everything in place.
Our first company arrived Memorial Day weekend. Our son Josh and his family (Michal and the children, Daniel (4), Ariel (2) and Maya (7 months) from Newton (Daniel and Ariel are with me above left and Josh and Michal in our new kitchen on the right), our son James from Brooklyn (shown here mugging it up in our beer hat from Carnival in Grenada), and Sean, still at Dartmouth all were together with us in our new home. Everyone approved the move.
The following week we played host to a large and changing group of Sean's friends from Dartmouth. People came and went and everyone was delightful. Scott and I so loved meeting Sean's friends and watching the fun. Luckily the weather cooperated and everyone swam in the lake and soaked in the hot tub. And of course ate huge communal meals. The move from our tiny 1100 sq ft house to 3500 sq ft has made this a lot easier.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Provisioning

Among cruiser couples there are generally conceded to be "pink" jobs and "blue" jobs. The former usually include provisioning, cooking, inventory management and cleaning. The latter almost always includes engine and machine maintenance/installation, plumbing, electrical work and most winching/hauling. In our case we both do communications (SSB, VHF and email), navigation and steering, taking equal watches, but Heather drives the boat into marinas and anchorages while Scott runs around the deck handling ropes/anchor and giving helpful advice.
"How do you plan on shopping and menus for weeks or months on a boat?", is a common question. Many cruising women I know write out menus for their voyages and some even cook up a lot of the dishes in advance. These are then put in portions and frozen. We don't have a freezer so this isn't an option for us.
"What - you don't have a freezer on that big boat!"
Well, I really never used a freezer on land ,other than for ice and ice cream. We do miss the ice cream but we have a ice maker on board, so it hasn't been a problem yet. Putting one in is a big job because the beautiful wood work and counters in the galley would have to be all redone. So I thought I'd add my two cents worth on the subject of provisioning in this entry. Skip it if you're not interested!

Like at home the first job is to buy all the basics. We carry stocks of these following for six months. Common to most would be; flour (white and whole wheat, regular and bread types), corn meal, sugar, baking powder & soda, yeast, vegetable and extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, peanut butter, spices, coffee (I bring 2.5 lb bags of my favorite French roast beans down with me from the States), teas, dried fruit, dried beans, rice (brown, white and risotto), and many kinds of pasta. Dry goods include cereal, crackers, long life bread, couscous, bread crumbs, nuts, and dried soup mixes. Most of these things can be replaced but at the major islands or cities but the price will be generally higher and the selection poorer.
Canned goods keep for a long time and are necessary for emergency purposes. Often used types are tuna, salmon, shrimp, crab, sardines, anchovies, clams, smoked oysters, canned tomatoes and sauces/paste, mushrooms, and beef/chicken broth. Jars of pesto, marinated artichokes, bruschetta and chutney make special meals easy. Polenta in a tube makes a quick elegant touch. Tuna steaks and chicken breasts now come all cooked in individual vacuum packed foil servings (pretty expensive so kept for emergencies). We happen to treat ourselves traditionally after long passages with corn beef or roast beef hash (with eggs) so I always have them on hand. Occasionally we'll open a can of soup, corn, chick peas, black beans, artichokes etc. We have another supply of canned vegetables, corned beef, ham and fruits in case I run out of the fresh ones. This has happened very rarely but recently during our month in totally undeveloped islands off Venezuela, they were a god send. These are all non perishable goods.
Milk is included in this category: UHT dairy products are wonderful things. We have quarts of milk, pints and half pints of heavy cream and cooking cream from France in abundance. We have dried milk as well in case of emergency and for making bread. Yes we can make bread, both the old fashioned way and in our bread machine. I sometimes make easy breads like corn bread and banana bread but until that month in the out islands we found the local breads have been quite good and inexpensive. In the San Blas islands where there are no stores we will have it going again frequently.
There are a number of products that make cooking and eating well easier. A favorite example for me is Zatarin's mixes; gumbo, jambalaya, dirty rice, salmon & crab cake mixes etc. With fresh onions, celery, peppers, tomatoes and any meat/fish available, these are wonderful and quick. Tasty Bite makes a large selection of already cooked Indian foods in foil packets that only have to be heated. I add them to leftovers and serve over rice. We bought a selection of ready made sauces like beurre blanc, trois poivre, sweet and sour, lemon pepper in Trinidad and Martinique that quickly turn whatever we're having into gourmet. Wolfs Kashi & farfalle, Near East mixes etc. are all handy. I also like to have some hors d'oeuve type mixes like salmon & crab cake, falafel, baccala fritters, hummus, black bean dip etc.

The second category is perishable but long lasting fruits and vegetables. We always have onions, garlic, carrots, and potatoes on board. When I can find them we add winter squash, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, plantains, apples and starting out, green bananas. These can all manage out of the frig if necessary and some always stay there. We hang most in net hammocks in the V berth. Some are in those green long life bags in the frig. Parmesano Regiano is sort of in this category. I bring a huge chunk with me from the States and it keeps for months in the back of the frig.

Next are the fresh products that make up my usual shopping list. Always included and usually available everywhere are lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, green onions and cabbage (mostly for cole slaw after the lettuce is gone)Fresh seasoning packets (shown in lower right hand corner of the picture here in a local outdoor market) which include small peppers, green onions, thyme, and whatever other fresh herb they have are sold everywhere. Many places I can get zucchini, broccoli, green beans, cauliflower, purple top turnips, beets and local vegetables like dasheen, breadfruit, callaloo and other greens - sometimes spinach. When in season (and on certain islands) we get pineapple, papaya, mangoes and other local fruits.

And then there is meat and/or fish. On the small islands there is little and when there is, it's frozen, unless, in the case of fish, you can buy from a fisherman or a fish market (photo here is of the selection at a small fish market). Sometimes we can get fresh chicken legs (heaven knows where the breasts go but they are hardly ever seen in a store) or chunks of pork. Every kind of cheap meat and poultry parts are available though, chicken backs and feet, beef or pork innards. Local beef is often only available in frozen chunks, identified as "Clod",but after much experience, only edible in stew. Larger islands have supermarkets with varying stock. Some, like Grenada, Marguarita, Trinidad or St. Lucia, have a wide variety of goods similar to a normal market in the US. The french islands are different. They are part of France and we traveled up to Martinique partially to replenish our stocks of delicacies; cheeses of every kind, pates, cold cuts and lovely meats, jars of cornichons, olives, pesto, etc.
Most markets carry a few cheddar type cheeses; Anchor cheddar from New Zealand and Cracker Barrel from the US, Philadelphia Cream cheese, and of course, American Cheese Food Product (we skip that). Sometimes I can get some feta cheese or Camembert in a small wheel. Eggs are almost always there. We try and get local eggs, unrefrigerated. They last a long time and don't need to be kept in the frig. Hummus is now often available, but cottage cheese or sour cream is hard to find outside of the big islands.
It is now possible to get whole wheat bread often on even the smallest islands. These little stores will have only a few loaves and we need to get there early to get one. Up in the Bahamas the breads were often sweet. The next size small market will have local bread and a selection of packaged sliced breads, mostly white. In busy harbor areas or near marinas even the small stores will have frozen bagels and some multi grain breads. Again the big island supermarkets have excellent selections, although, unlike the States, they do not have dates on them. The french islands are of course bread heaven - boulangeries sell baguettes, croissants, and pan de chocolat, among much else.

Liquid refreshments are usually easy to find everywhere. Soft drinks are loved by all islanders. We don't drink them often so we keep a few for guest on board only. We do stock up on tonic water whenever we can get it. Everyone does. Scott loves fruit juices and rum punch so we always have a good stock of pineapple juice and when we can get them; orange, mango, guava etc as well. Goya makes great products available in the north and later Orchard does in liter foil boxes (they don't add sugar to theirs). We never have enough of these. In addition we've discovered fruit concentrates available in bottles - locally produced. They come in flavors such as grenadine (necessary for rum punches), tamarind, guava, mixed essence, sorrel and mauby (very popular in Trinidad and tastes a little like root beer or Dr. Pepper). Angostura bitters are also necessary for rum punch. I might as well give you approximately my recipe.
RUM PUNCH - combine 1 quart or liter of pineapple juice with 2 or 3 cups of other juices above, 2- 4 oz of Grenadine syrup, a good shake of Bitters and if you have any of the concentrates (not Mauby) you can add a little of those also or instead of the extra juices. Stir well. Fill a glass with ice, add as much rum as you like and then fill up with punch mixture. Stir. Grate a fresh nutmeg over the top. Float some dark rum on top if you really need a punch! Voila! If you only have pineapple juice that works fine. You can add Coconut Rum along with regular rum - marvelous! If you can get a hold of Punch Coco at one of the local markets, add that in. I personally love it plain over ice with the same amount of dark rum.

Besides rum, we usually have gin, wine, and beer. Most alcholic beverages are available everywhere. In a tiny store with maybe two heads of lettuce and one loaf of bread, they'll have soft drinks and liquor - and OF COURSE beer. If you go through the Dominican Republic you can't buy enough Presidente. That was our favorite - plus it comes in big bottles. If you get to Margaurita you won't buy enough beer - you'll want to sink your boat, it's that cheap. Cans are of course better in general, except those tiny 6 once cans of Heineken (they've got to be kidding). But really all the local beers are pretty good.

Wine is also available everywhere but a limited selection and expensive. The first french island for most people is St. Martin and everyone goes a little crazy, if of course, they love wine. It is possible to buy nice table wine for 2 or 3 euros each. It's also great to have a bottle to bring over to another boat when invited for drinks or dinner. We never bought enough and always ran out before the next french island! Our last trip to Martinique before heading to the western Caribbean we bought several cases. Fairly good wines are also available in 3 or 5 liter boxes. If you aren't familiar with the winery, ask around before committing yourself - they vary in quality.

Cleaning and paper products are another category of provisioning. We have a whole closet of cleaning products. It is remarkable how many things there are on a boat that need special cleaning and there are many products for each. I was so naive that when I saw a fellow cruiser cleaning her stainless steel, it was the first time I realized it needed cleaning. Once you see that rust, you always see it and another task is born. It's hard to resist trying another cleaning product but there is only so much room! This is too big a subject for coverage here. Stocking up on toilet paper, napkins and paper towels when they are cheap is great. Still it is possible to buy them almost everywhere and they take up a lot of room. Everyone develops a few favorite products - if you do, buy a lot. I love swifter dust cloths, Pledge orange oil wipes, Joy detergent, Murphy's Oil Soap, Windex, huge containers of vinegar, and lots of sponges (not always easy to find down here surprisingly). Zip lock bags, freezer quality better, are absolutely necessary and in every size.
Well if anyone in Blog land is out there looking for information on provisioning, I hope this is interesting.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Lunch at Bistro Le Clochard


Scott and I rarely splurge on a expensive restaurant but when we saw the white sail canopies (seen on the far left in the picture here) of "Bistro Le Clochard" we threw the budget to the wind. The restaurant's terrace is visible from the floating Emma bridge which crosses the narrow channel entrance of Williamsted harbour. It is tucked into Fort Rif and the rooms are within the 19th Century vaulting of the old Dutch fort guarding one side of the entrance.
The entrance is into a lovely greenhouse but we were headed for the dramatic tables overlooking the water. The waves were crashing against the walls of the fort and some of the tables were not available as a result - we got a dry location with an amazing view. Not long after our arrival two tugs exited the harbor and then proceeded to escort a huge freighter right past us.


We watched as the bridge slowly opened. The end of the bridge has two giant outboard motors; they power the 16 floating pontoon boats and the bridge above them in a semi circle, ending up parallel to the shore. This was built in 1888 and was recently overhauled and restored. While it is out of service free ferries called "ponchi" take passengers over the channel for free.

The food was terrific too - French and Swiss. We even treated ourselves to a beautifully arranged dessert of local strawberries and cream. That's one portion shown in the picture! After that Scott and I had to take a long walk around the city - hardly a difficult task.

Shopping is a big pastime in Willemstad - all the traditional European and American higher end chains are represented. Our favorite however was the local markets and outdoor craft artisans.

Friday, May 11, 2007

Curacao




Curacao is the largest and most populated of the ABCs. It covers 171 square miles and 134,000 inhabitants. It was claimed for the Spanish by Alonso de Ojeda in 1499 and occupied by the Dutch in 1634. It's natural large protected harbour made it a center for the slave trade until slavery was abolished in 1863. Affluence from this thriving business built the beautiful architecture of Willemstad, a mixture of Dutch and Spanish styles. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and very lovely.

In 1914 oil was dicovered at Maracaibo Basin and the Royal Dutch Shell built a large oil refinery in Curacao, this was turned over to the local government in the mid 1980s and now is leased to Venezuela. The oil developement caused serious descrepancies among the social groups on the island resulting in large scale rioting and protests in May of 1969. This resulted in more control over the political process by the majority Afro-Caribbean populace.

Tourism is becoming more important and big hotel developments are evident. Our marina is part of a combination hotel/condo/private home complex. At this point only the marina and some private homes are finished (very expensive ones). We're located at the end of a long private road and traveling to the city takes some planning. We caught a ride with one of our cuiser friends into the city and took the local bus back to the gate house. There we waited until a security guard came to drive us down to the marina.

This image on the right and some in the previous blog entry were taken around the marina and show the semi-arid vegetation and table topped hills that reminded us of the US southwest. The remaining lumps of other hills, worn down by occasional downpours and wind litter the area. The sunrise from our boat on our first morning here was really lovely.

Bonaire to Curacao

We really hated to leave Bonaire. It meant saying goodbye to many old and new friends. When we return in July only a few of them will be around. Luckily Bob and Barbara will be there as they sold their beautiful boat "Enkidu" during our stay and have moved into a rental apartment at the Marina while they look for a new home in Bonaire. They are sitting to my left in this picture taken during dinner on Tango (shown below).

Another shot (shown above) is of one of the tables during the weekly Mexican dominos game. Valerie is on the left; it was hard to say goodbye to she and Dave - they were great buddy boat friends on our month through the Venezuelan islands.

Finally we cleared out of Customs, battened down the hatches and left for Curacao. Again it was an easy fast trip and we were off the marina, Seru Boca, in Spaanse Water (a beautiful large lagoon inside the island) by 2 PM. The wind was continuing between 15 and 22 knots so we anchored off the Marina and gave them a call on our VHF radio.
The manager came out to the boat and suggested waiting until early next morning to come into our slip, when the wind would be at it's calmest. That sounded great to us. We did go into the small restaurant/bar for dinner that night and met many old friends from our summer in Trinidad. The neighoring boats on either side of us will be there until our return and we met the owners as well. This is a lovely, although remote, spot!

Wednesday, May 09, 2007

Fun times in Bonaire

We joined our friends from "Will of the Wisp", "Justoo" and "Unplugged" plus "Angel" on a trip to Lac Bay on the east side of Bonaire for the day in a rented truck. This picture shows how 10 people manage in a five passenger truck.

On the way we drove by the salt ponds. These are huge square pens of various colors from green to pink that dry out the salt from the water. This is major industry here on Bonaire. Until the Dutch took possesion from the Spanish in 1633 there was little development on the island and salt was it's only resource. It changed hands several times and was handed back to the Dutch by the Treaty of Paris in 1816. By 1837 it had a thriving salt industry, all made possible by slave labor. We visited the slave quarters which have been restored. Six men used to share these tiny dark houses.


A large group of kite surfers were practicing here on the beaches and they are spectacular to watch but our goal was the windsurfing lagoon at shallow Lac Bay. Honoree and Scott rented them and practiced as we all watched and cheered. Honoree is quite good and Scott is getting better! Many of us walked a half mile across the bay (it is that shallow!) to snorkel on the reef. It was a lot of exercise as the currents were quite strong. We rented lounge chairs and sat and talked too. Later we had dinner at a wonderful nearby restaurant, Kon Tiki - great food, atmosphere and service.

Another night we went to see "Eregon" at the movie theater on Fair Winds, a Scientology cruise ship that was in town. They invited mostly local people but Honoree had met the social director while running. All the guests and staff on the boat are Scientology members and most are there to take the courses and tests. The movie was very entertaining and it was fun to tour the boat. There were no attempts to convert any of the invited guests.

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Water Sports in Bonaire





The next few days we spent on water sports and socializing. Honoree and Walt on "Will of the Wisp" came over for dinner and then we spent a day on their boat scuba diving and snorkeling off Klein Bonaire. These shots are all taken that day. Even though the weather and water is quite warm, wet suits help keep one warm when in the water for some time, or diving deeper.

Another day we did the same with Peter and Connie on "Justoo" at the dive mooring site called "A Thousand Steps" north of Kralenduk with Coleen and Tom from "Unplugged" joining us. Both these boats are 38 feet and therefore can moor at the special dive moorings. That's the limit on size. The snorkeling and diving is famous here and justifiably so. In July when Scott and I fly back to Curacao, our son Sean and a friend will be joining us for 20 days. They and I plan to get our PADI Basic Scuba certifications in Bonaire. Scott already has his and may do an advanced course.

Thursday, May 03, 2007

Aves de Sotavento to Bonaire



We left the next day at 9 AM and it was another rolly fast sail downwind. We're getting better at jibbing the main safely with the preventor but getting the jib through the narrow slot between the Yankee and the staysail is difficult. We've decided it's safer to roll it in and then take it out again. The route into our new anchorage in the Aves de Sotavento was easy to see and a pretty spot. We were between Isles Palmeras and the small island to it's south. Lots of dolphins escorted us in, playing in our bow waves. We spent the rest of the afternoon kayaking around the three islands, snorkeling off the north end and visiting a fisherman's compound and shrine.
Up early we cast off and again enjoyed our dolphin escort for miles heading west. We were in 20 plus knots of wind and 8 foot waves but it was fun tacking downwind and a fast passage. In no time we saw the hills of Bonaire ahead and headed up the west coast towards Kralenduk. As predicted in our guide book, this reach in calm waters with lots of wind was wonderful sailing. We hit 9.3 knots at one point! It was May 1, Labor Day, and a holiday in Bonaire so we picked up a mooring and went into Customs and Immigration (at the Police Station because of the holiday). Later we went out to dinner with our friends from Australia, Jerry and Nikki, on "Orphalleur" at the Mona Lisa Restaurant - wonderful food. After weeks in undeveloped islands it was a bit surreal to be there.
The next day "Enkidu", Bob and Barbara, good friends from our summer in Trinidad and moored beside us, took us all around in their car for errands. I dropped off three bags of laundry and visited two supermarkets - heaven to get lots of fresh vegetables, meat and fruit. Later we met up with Debra and Richard on "Tango", also friends from Trinidad for drinks. They presented our Welcome Aboard certificate from Seven Seas Cruising Association; we are now Commodores! They invited us all to a terrific dinner on their catamaran a few days later. That night we fell into bed early after motoring into the Harbour Village Marina and filling up our dry water tanks. We plan to stay a few days here and clean up the boat.
This picture shows Debra and Dick in their twin kayacks. We joined them one day for a trip up the coast in our double kayack to a pretty beach and some great snorkeling.
We've really enjoyed our double kayack, not only for fun and exercise, but also as a second "dinghy".

Monday, April 30, 2007

The Aves



The Aves are two separate groups of islands about 10 miles apart. Aves means birds in Spanish and there are many of them there. They live in dense mangrove forests on some of the islands. They crowd the branches; boobies, seabirds and herons. It had been a rolly passage that day and we were tired after lunch but the aqua water called to us. We swam over to a nearby reef and snorkeled for an hour. There was a lot of current so the trip back was slower. We had the rest of the barracuda for dinner and watched the last DVD in my Indiana Jones set, documentaries on the making of the series - really fun.
It blew hard overnight but was calmer in the morning. We borrowed Dave and Val's satellite phone to call our movers at their request. We were being moved out of our Lake Rescue home, Tall Timbers, into a storage unit today and tomorrow. We spent the day kayaking around to see the birds: baby boobies are so adorable, fluffy white balls. They and their parents didn't seem frightened of us at all, but just stared at us as curiously as we did of them. We had a lovely Sunday brunch on Angel mid day; scones, muffins, pancakes, Canadian bacon, fruit salad and peach cobbler. Fabulous! Later we explored over to the next two anchorages. A small landing allowed you through a gap in the mangroves to the open grassy east side of the island.

There a wall of painted rocks and wood testified to the many cruisers who have been through this area - a boater's shrine. We had seen a similar one back in the Exumas in the Bahamas. The snorkeling was very good as well and we saw a number of new species.