Showing posts with label Union. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Union. Show all posts

Monday, March 01, 2010

Union Island, SVG


Union is mountainous and it's outline stood out as we sailed north from Carriacou. We were anchoring again off the reef surrounding Clifton, the yachting center in the south part of the Grenadines. There have been three previous visits, once with our son James.

The water is amazing here, reefs surround the anchorage and provide a kalideoscope of blues, greens and browns. We anchored at the end farthest from the town and right off Happy Island. The owner Janni is also the architect and builder! That's the view across the reefs from Happy Island (see the same mountain ridge as picture above)and the island itself.

He created the island from scratch with piles of conch shells left by fisherman. It's expanding every day and now has a commodious charming interior as well as the big sand front yard with lots of comfortable seating. We were lucky to be the only guests for awhile that evening and spent some time talking with him about

the island and politics for all of the St. Vincent and the Grenadines - very interesting and informative. Then the tour groups started arriving from the island by water taxis and the place filled up quickly. He serves simple BBQ meals as well as a full bar.

Of course before we went there we signed in with Customs and Immigration. These were located in the tiny but well appointed airport only a half mile from the dinghy landing. Union is part of the SVG, St. Vincent and the Grenadines and is the southern most larger island. A good part of the construction money for this airport came from China!

Clifton is a colorful and charming place with a surprising number of facilities for tourist and cruisers. Many chartering vessels stop here. We were thrilled to see a small French bakery greet us at the dinghy dock. That's Scott buying croissants and pan de chocolat for tomorrow's breakfast. The two pictures above show the path along the waterfront going west and then east.

There is a small park in the center of town and everything is painted brilliant pastel colors. We had some provisioning to do and there are a number of choices. Next to the park are at least eight small sheds with a big selection of fresh vegetables, some grown right on the island. We had a great salad that night. These are the colors the town is painted in!

Our next stop was Erika's Marine Services. We had reasonable WIFI out at the anchorage so we didn't need their internet services and not enough time to do laundry as it was Saturday and we planned to leave Monday, but we did want to avail ourselves of their excellent book swap. Scott and I go through a huge number of books, and we had five with us to swap. While there we looked through their amazing DVD rentals - not only a big selection of movies, but many popular TV show series and my favorite, Masterpiece Theater and Mystery series on PBS. Unfortunately we only had two nights! We both like Inspector Morse so that was the final choice.

On Sunday we hiked to the Big Sands beach on the north coast via Fort Hill and back more through the center. Unfortunately the Big Sands Hotel (now the Amerindia) has a new owner and isn't open to the public. Happily a laid back little beach bar was next door on the long white beach. It was a really hot dry walk so after a big glass of water and a beer, we soaked in the ocean for an hour before walking back into town.

There we had lunch at Lambi's, an institution here that gets bigger every year. The meal was delicious and enormous. We brought enough back for lunch the next day. They serve it family style with your choice of meat or fish with bowls of rice pilaf, mashed potatoes, stir fried vegetables, fried plantains and eggplant, salad and cole slaw. Yes, you read right, all of these!

Thursday, November 30, 2006

James' Visit - Grenada to Union Island


Our son James flew into Grenada on November 13 from New York City. He lives in Brooklyn and is working at the River Cafe while he studies for the LSATs and applies to Law School. Luckily he was able to take two weeks off and sail with us north through the Grenadines. We only had full day in Grenada so we toured St. George's, had lunch at "The Nutmeg" and then swam and snorkeled off the boat in Prickely Bay. The next day we sailed up to Tyrell Bay in Carriacou. Carriacou is a Carib word meaning "island surrounded by reefs" and the following morning James, Heather and Scott had a chance to see them up close and personal. Scott did his PADI certification course here with Georg and Connie at Arawak Divers. James and I took their introductory course and did a shallow dive in the morning and then a deep dive that afternoon. We went down to 41 feet and stayed down over 40 minutes: pretty good for a first try. We both had some problems with equalizing our ear pressure but resolved it (although it was several days before Heather's ears completely cleared). The variety of fish and coral was wonderful and the time went by so quickly.
Scott joined us for the dive and we all celebrated that night with our friends from "Nereia" and "Seacycle". Jaime and Dan had their boat hauled out there and rented a great cottage nearby. They invited us over for drinks and appetizers - really dinner, there was so much. The next morning we were off again, this time to Petit St. Vincent and Petite Martinique. A squall came in half way and blocked all visability for awhile but it cleared off and the sun came out as we anchored off the PSV resort in crystal clear water. This beautiful elegant hotel has cottages scattered along the beaches with lots of privacy. If you want room service, you send a flag up your flagpole. We had a drink in the bar but decided against eating there after we looked at the prices. We weren't suffering on the boat as I'd provisioned with filet mignons for several meals (with bernaise sauce no less).
We took the dinghy over to Petite Martinique and walked around the community, very local and no tourist development at all. The inhabitants live by boatbuilding, seafaring, and fishing. In the old days, says our guide, they were also smugglers. Children were playing dominos, a variation where you slap down the domino when you play it - a lively scene. Other men were untangling fishing nets and mending them.

We sailed next over to Morpion, a low sand island with a thatch shelter that sometimes gets washed away. Actually it's amazing that it's there at all. At high tide there is almost nothing above water, but it's a beautiful spot - my photo doesn't do it justice. We snorkeled and swam there but when we tried to pull up the anchor we found it was wound around a rock and we were stuck. Scott got his air tank and hookah out and tried to go down and untangle us but the air hose wasn't long enough. He could have tried to do it using the dinghy but meanwhile good Samaratins from a nearby catamarin in full scuba gear came to our rescue and in just a few minites we were free.

Our next stop was Clifton Harbour, Union Island with a what looked like a tricky entrance surrounded by reefs. It turned out not to be that difficult as there were channel markers and the reefs themselves was very obvious in the clear water. We were all tired from too much sun (and Scott had gone through a lot diving the stuck anchor) so we went out to dinner that night at the West Indies Restaurant and had a terrific French Creole meal.