Two Snow Birds Head South Again

Scott using the hose to wash the mud off the anchor as
the windless pulls it up

Well we tried to head south...but ran into a major snag. During our visit to Glouchester we took a sail over to Salem Harbor on 8/20 with Gail, her friend Marge, Harvey, Carol and Jonathan. We were maneuvering in a packed harbor to pick up a mooring when suddenly the boat stopped responding to the wheel and throttle.
"Turn right!", Scott shouted from the bow.
I explained and a quick swim (after shutting off the motor) confirmed that the shaft had pulled out of the engine. We were lucky we didn't lose the propeller. We anchored quickly but it wasn't a good spot. Luckily the Mid Harbor launch crew towed us to a mooring for the night and Bill drove down and picked us up.

Some of our neighbors at the Glouchester anchorage

Scott, Marge and Gail at anchor in Glouchester

Harvey and I 

Sunset at anchor Solomon's Island

Our cabin is a cozy place after a long day at sea.

The moonrise while at anchor off
Deltaville Marina

These shots here and below were taken on the Alligator
River Canal , north of Beaufort, NC

We couldn't have picked a better spot to have this happen. The Dion Boatyard was in Salem and we were hauled there. H & H Propeller was located right next door. It took a month to grind a new shaft and install it but on 9/22 we had the boat back in the water. We didn't know it then, but problems with the propeller were to haunt us for the next several years until we finally replaced it. It was too small for the boat/motor - although the recommended size by the manufacturer.
We had to be in Annapolis by 10/4 for a 3 day Weather Seminar run by the SSCA so that put us on a tight schedule. After a few days at Brown's provisioning and making small repairs, we were off on an two night sail down to Newport, R.I. The first night I had some nervous moments entering the Cape Cod canal in the dark. A few minutes later I was in the center of the canal approaching the first bridge, confused by the bright lights everywhere when a huge barge came straight at me from under the bridge. Wow - did I turn that boat fast for the edge. The rest of the clear moon lit night was lovely and so was the next one.

In our rush to get south we often had long days motoring
sometimes till the sun had already set.

We anchored off the Ida Lewis Yacht Club on 9/28. The next day a gale was expected and at the harbor master's suggestion we motored over to mooring #3 further in the harbor - top winds of 29 knots, not so bad and it cleared up that night. So the next morning we were off again and anchored at "The Gulf" behind Charles Island, CT, a lovely spot. An early start got us all the way through the East River, going 11 knots at time with the current, through the harbor and all the way to Sandy Hook, NJ. The next morning we did an overnight down the NJ coast rounding Cape May at 6am and up the Deleware River. It was a beautiful clear night and we had a positive current most of the way up the river - very different from our horror story fly infested first time doing this. Scott Free was in a slip at the Summit North Marina in the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal by 2pm 10/3. They had a courtesy shuttle for shopping and I did 4 loads of laundry. Scott cleaned the boat and we left again the next morning and by 6:45pm we were following racing cadets from Annapolis Naval Academy into the harbor. We anchored off the academy but a few days later moved the boat up to Weems Creeks when the weather turned bad.  Our meeting with Jimmy Cornell one morning was a challenge as we tried to dinghy to it in terrible conditions and were so late, he took another client. Happily he accepted our apologies and we had 1 and 1.5 hours of his time discussing our plans for cruising. He gave us a lot of good advice and was such an interesting person to talk to. Of course we attended the boat show, the SSCA Gam as volunteers this time and the Weather Seminar. Luckily the weather improved and we were able to return to our closer anchorage. It was a full week.

Autumn colors reflected in the still waters

This "Pink House" always caught our eye south of
Morehead City. Lots of lovely homes along the ICW

Scott in wet suit before diving to untangle our dock line
from the propeller in Wilmington

On 10/13 we pulled anchor and headed south again to Solomon's Island where we found a tight but quiet spot to anchor for two nights to do some shopping and laundry. The next leg was to Deltaville, sailing all the way but finding some rough water off the Potomoc River before entering through the narrow twisting channel to the anchorage off the Marina where we'd been before. We enjoyed guest privileges there the next day using their courtesy car and bicycles to explore and shop. We were also able to fill up our water tanks at the dock.
The next few days we moved fast, anchoring off Hospital point, Coinjock Marina and our favorite, Tuckahoe Point, all with sunny warm days and a nice breeze.
The Alligator River was so beautiful, many photos here, and we saw 2 bears in a tree! Our next anchorage at Broad Creek at mile 74 was nice until the mosquitoes arrived - first time for awhile that happened. Still sunny and warm the next day to Morehead Yacht Basin where we used another courtesy car to the supermarket and Boater's World. We stayed there two nights and I did loads of laundry and cleaned. Walked over to Beaufort and had dinner one night - scary walk over the bridge in the dark.
On 10/23 we made it back to Beach House Marina in Surf City but left the next morning as the weather was deteriorating and we had to make some decisions. A hurricane was heading up the coast and after much deliberations we decided to go out of our way up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington, NC. We got a spot on the town dock and tied up carefully. This is a beautiful town and our two days there were all too short. We were very impressed with the architecture, restaurants, shops and nice people.

Our Second Trip to Maine

A parade of boats in Burnt Coat Harbor

We didn't have a lot of time to spend in Maine as it's a long trip south to the Chesapeake for the Annapolis Boat Show and it gets cold up north early. Our two big dates were the Swan's Island Music Festival and the SSCA Gam in Islesboro. We  have gone to the first several times, last year in our own boat and this would be our second time at the GAM.
At our last posting we were in Kent Cove, Fox Island Thoroughfare. We waited in the morning for the fog to clear and then on our way to Stonington we picked up a lobster buoy on the rudder. Scott needed to dive (in his full wet suit) to cut it away.

Our beautiful Scott Free at anchor watching the parade.

Views from the trail at Fort Point Cove

We stayed for lunch and managed to get rid of our trash, but no market or laundromat. There were severe thunderstorm warnings on the weather VHF. We dodged some big ones and anchored at 5:15 in Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island. We had only 2 nights to spend as various problems had delayed us sailing north. We lucked out and got tickets for one of the nights - they were sold out the other. There are surprise music happenings during the day as well as sea chanteys being sung on boats sailing through the harbor. Bob DeFeyter and "Bobcat" were anchored nearby and we had him and his guests Frank and Tasha Jost over for dinner the second night.
On 8/4 we left at 11am and sailed over on a beautiful clear day to Camden. We stayed only a couple of hours to shop and get our email at their beautiful library. We left late in the afternoon and motor sailed over to Broad Cove in Islesboro. It took us 2 tries but we managed to anchor there by 6pm and pick up lobsters from "Destiny". It was a wonderful meal.
The next night was the dinghy roundup (one dinghy anchors and the others all tie up to each other - we must have had 20 dinghies) cocktail hour, a hilarious time really trying to pass hors d'oeuves from rocking dinghy to dinghy while balancing drinks. Unfortunately it was cut short by an approaching thunderstorm. Everyone got back safely to their boats.
Sunday is the great pot luck with various presentations on boat stuff and round the world sailors. Richard and Kathy DeGrasse host this every year at their home. They spend their winters in Marathon, FL and were to see them there many times in the future.

A quintissential Maine scene, schooner and light house.

On Monday we motored over to Belfast, pulled up to the town dock, took on water and got rid of our trash. After picking up a mooring we toured the town and at 3pm continued on to Searsport. We intended to anchor there but the wind had picked up and it was uncomfortable so we kept on around the point to Fort Point Cove, peaceful and calm. The next morning we explored the fort remains and the unusual lighthouse. Trails led us along the coast with beautiful views of the water and Scott Free.
It was calm now in Searsport so we were able to pick up a free mooring from the museum and see that charming town for a few hours before sailing on to anchor for two nights in a beautiful cove SW of Castine between Nautilus and Holbrook islands. We spent a free day there at anchor cleaning and sewing. Our dinghy ride into the town for sightseeing and lunch was quite a ways and very rough returning in 15-20 knots of wind. It tested the stability of our little dinghy for sure.
The following day we went to Tenant's Harbor, had lunch at the Cod End Fish Market, took a walk, got our email from the library and bought 2 2.5 lb lobsters for dinner. Unbelievably good! After 2 nights there we were off again to Friendship Harbor where we had a long walk and visited the museum. The next morning off again to Round Pond Harbor where we were able to pick up the "Bud Memorial" mooring for free. Our old friends John Padgett and Wendy Griswold lived nearby and met us for dinner at the restaurant there with their children Ray and Olivia.
After two nights we circled the peninsula and took a mooring at Christmas Cove right off the Coveside Restaurant - the scene of many wonderful dinners visiting John and Wendy. They came over with Wendy's sister Gail and husband Bob to have dinner aboard at our next stop, Boothbay Harbor where we got a mooring from the Tugboat Inn after filling up with water at their docks.
It was getting time to head south again - much too short a time in Maine for sure. The next morning we left early and went straight to the Isle of Shoals off Portsmouth, N.H. and luckily were able to pick up a free mooring as it was 7:45pm. We were just in time to see the sunset and eat a happily already prepared dinner.
At dawn we witnessed a bathing ceremony on Star Island. With lots of cheering and coaxing everyone managed to jump off the dock and get out of the water FAST. Then we were off again and had a quick passage back to Glouchester. Passing by Harvey and Gail's house we got them on the cell phone and they watched us sail by with all of us waving. For the first time we anchored in the inner harbor - fun watching all the boats - for a few days.

The SSCA GAM in Islesboro, some of the cruiser crowd

Searsport - a lovely green surrounded by charming cottages and the old fashioned hotel line the waterfront

The lighthouse at Fort Point from the sea

And from the land

Scott admiring the bell

Scott Free at anchor through the trees

Sunsets are beautiful while on the water

Scott hard at work at his sewing machine.

Sailing with the Smiths

The old Oceanic Hotel on Star Island at the Isle of Shoals, once a fishing village, now a Christian Retreat

Colin with Heather and at the wheel 

Carol, Bill and Jonathan

Harvey and Gail, not sure who is with them below.

That's a shot from our boat to the point
with it's lovely lighthouse. 

From Scituate we sailed north to Glochester and picked up a mooring at the Eastern Point Yacht Club. That's a shot from our boat to the point with it's lovely lighthouse. Our very close friends Harvey and Gail Smith live there in the summers and it's a favorite spot of ours. We'd arrived on July 3 and hosted all the Smiths, Fonvielles, Jeanne, Ravi and Sunjay Dhama for a July 4th dinner and fireworks. That's Leslie and boyfriend Chaz below. Originally we'd planned to motor in to the inner harbor but once everyone was on board it was late and dark.

Navigating in the dark with a big group of people on board was too scary. So we sat at the mooring and watched a line of fireworks displays down the coast towards Boston. There must have been six towns visable! Naturally the food and company were great!
We went in to Brown's Marina for fuel (this picture shows the shoreline as we get near the inner harbor and had a great day sail with Harvey, Gail and Colin the next
day. Harvey and Gail then joined us as we sailed north around Cape Ann up to the Isles of Shoals. Our first night we picked up a mooring in Rockport off Motif #1. Then on to the Isle of Shoals. This tiny group of islands has several small homes and the big old Oceanic Hotel, established in the 19C and now used for religious retreats. They welcome the public to look around and eat dinner by reservation.
Nearby Appledore Island is a summer teaching and research center run by Cornell University. The biggest of the islands, it was once the home of poet Celia Thaxter. We toured the center and the island. Smuttynose Island is has two fishing cottages and a ranger to loan you a booklet for a self guided tour around the island. The restored Haley House next to the Ranger office is said to be one of the oldest in Maine. Legends of pirates and smuggling hang around these islands and a famous murder occurred here as well. It is impossible to anchor there due to a fouled bottom but the moorings, put down by several N.H. Yacht Clubs, can be used if available.

From there we crossed over to the mainland and up the Piscataqua River into Portsmouth. This is a charming old city, recently considerable restored. Unfortunately the dock at Prescott Park was full so we went past the draw bridge where we found a available slip, right downtown. In the afternoon we toured Strawberry Banke, a collection of 30 historical structures all restored and open. That night we saw a musical production at the local theater followed by great folk music at a historic tavern. Fabulous! And, no advance planning.

The next morning the river was churning with a 3-4 knot current sweeping down under the bridge, only 200 feet from our dock. Oh boy did we angst! We pulled the boat as far down the dock as it would go and tested the engine before we cast off. Scott barely made it on board as we surged off and away from the bridge. Far enough off, we called the bridge tender for an opening.

The bridge slowly began to rise. I didn't want to get too far away so I circled around while we watched. Time went by. The bridge tender got on the VHF; "You're making me dizzy! What are you waiting for?"
Scott came back nervously; "We have a 63' mast. Is there clearance?
"Oh I think so...the bridge is 120' up!", he replied with a laugh.
The rest of our cruise was uneventful but lovely. We returned to Glochester and tied up at Brown's Boat Yard for some repairs. During these five days we had rigging work done and new instruments installed. Heather striped the railing and Scott installed a new refrigerator. The boat was a mess as you can see below, but happily we were able to stay with the Smiths in comfort. Once completed we set sail again, this time north to Maine.