Monday, August 13, 2007

Fun Times with Guests

Sean and Sarah flew down to Curacao before Scott and I and opened up the boat. We stayed several days at the Seru Boca marina waiting for a weather window to sail upwind to Bonaire. We rented a car and drove around the island to several beaches, swimming and snorkeling - and of course, eating out! Once in Bonaire, besides the PADI course, we spent a day at the windsurfing Sorobon beach in Lac Bay. This was a first time for Sarah and she did very well.

That's her on the right while Sean looks on. Sean had done it only a little before but he really took off this time. Sarah celebrated her birthday during our visit. In the afternoon we played bridge at a friend's apartment and Honoree made a birthday watermelon boat as a centerpiece. We had a birthday cake for dessert. That night Sean cooked a special meal on the boat.
Brent and Wilma flew into Curacao the day Sean and Sarah left. We toured Williamsted and stayed both at the Seru Boca Marina and at anchor nearby. Later in Bonaire Brent and Wilma went horse back riding one day. The trip took them to the mangrove forest, the salt pans and swimming with the horses in the ocean.
Wilma too had a birthday with us. We stretched the celebrating over several days, having her cake and dinner on the boat at Klein Curacao and a great night out in Bonaire later. During our visit to Williamstad in Curacao we had a terrific time at the Kura Hulanda museum and hotel. The museum covers the history of Africa, the chronicles of the slave trade and then follows the people brought as slaves through their history in the Caribbean and north America up to the Second World War.

It is very comprehensive and contains the best African artefact collection of the Caribbean. Instead of a single musuem building the collection is spread over a group of restored houses and sculptures in gardens and patios. After spending hours visiting there we adjourned to the nearby hotel patio for cold drinks and luckily found a dance performance by a local dance group, "The Golden Dancers".
They started with native folk dances and those of the many cultures that influenced the island, then demonstrated South American and Caribbean dance styles, and ended with hip hop. During the performanced they took a break and brought four members of the audience up for a "dance contest" - Brent and Heather were two of them. You can see us trying hard on the right.

Washington Slagbaai National Park, Bonaire



Created in 1969 after Julio Herrara sold, on his death, his plantation to the government with the provision that it be preserved as a park. A second nearby plantation was added at a later date and the park covers a large portion of the western island (5643 hectares). There is an excellent small museum at the entrance which tells of plantation life and the history of Bonaire. Exhibits show elements of the work and structures there when it was a working farm. We saw several very large Iguanas, goats, and birds. One picture above shows a goat skull on one of the many cactus fences and the other a closeup of a curious iguana. The beaches in the park are an important nesting ground for all four species of sea turtles found in the Caribbean.
We went with Brent and Wilma (below left) fairly early in the morning and took the long route along the shore, stopping at all the attractions; lovely beaches (one really charming small one which is also a dive site is below) and rocky inlets, most of which are snorkeling and/or dive sites, the old lighthouse at Malmok, and remains of a salt packing factory at the original harbor on Bonaire. This last structure is being beautifuly restored and will be available as a camping overnight rental soon. One of our favorite stops was Suplado, two roaring blow holes. There is normally a hiking trail to the top of Subi Brandaris, the highest point on the island at 784 ft., but it was closed due to recent rain rendering the trails too muddy and slippery.



Several of the salt ponds had flocks of pink flamingos in them but it was hard to get close enough to photograph them. Bonaire is one of the prime flamingo nesting sites in the Caribbean and there are a number of sanctuaries around the island. They love the heavily salted pans thick with baby shrimp. It was a cloudy and intermitently rainy morning but it didn't dampen our enthusiasm. It was a lot cooler for walking! The roads in the park were pretty puddle strewn too and very rocky: we didn't travel very fast. All together we spent about 4 hours in the park. If the weather had been nicer we would have brought a picnic lunch and spent time at the beach, swimming and snorkeling. Oh well, another time.

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

PADI Open Water Certification

Scott had done his certification in Carriacou last fall but when I checked one of the medical questions on the initial form "yes", they couldn't include me in the course without a signed letter from my doctor. I do take blood pressure medecine but it is under control. I saw my doctor when I returned to the States for the holidays and he encouraged me to dive. This spring I signed up for the course in Bonaire with my son Sean and his friend Sarah (here shown in the back of the pickup we rented for a few days).

The course takes on the average five days, although all of us completed it in four days, and our instructor said some people take much longer. It's an intensive four days. Before we arrived they suggested we complete the first three or four chapters in the book. We started two days in advance and I wish I'd begun earlier. There is a lot of material, self correcting quizzes throughout the chapters and a test at the end of each that our instructor corrected in class.
We took the course at the Carib Inn with Ralf Klug, a Dutch man who moved to Bonaire a number of years ago and is now a resident. He had a good sense of humour and carefully watched out for our welfare. Numerous drills and practices are necessary to really learn to safely dive and to instinctually handle any emergency. He watched us for signs of panic and happily didn't see any. The course alternates classroom sessions where we read, watched video instruction and discussed the material, with practical sessions in the water. The first day we used the fresh water pool, the second day the ocean off the beach and the last two days we dove at different locations off the boat, two dives a day. This picture shows me in my full diving regalia almost ready to fall backwards off the boat into the water.
Self corrected tests check for understanding throughout the course. A more comprehensive quiz follows each of the five chapters and is corrected in class. If anyone gets a question wrong Ralf went over the material until it was understood. Near the end of the program we took a final exam with 50 questions, a 75% score is necessary to pass. We all did very well on this and I believe that it would be impossible not to pass if you went through this process.

We started at 8:15AM in the morning, had a one and one half hour lunch break, and ended around 4:30PM. If you don't do all the chapters ahead of time, there's home work at night. I strongly recommend finishing the book before you begin - you're really tired after the long day. Diving is really different from snorkeling. We felt less like voyeurs and more like one of the fish. The hardest thing for me was managing my buoyency. At first I often felt I either was sinking, or more often, heading for the surface. Once my weights were adjusted correctly and I relaxed, it was effortless. There is so much to see the time goes by too quickly. Most of our dives lasted between 45 and 55 minutes. The deepest we went was 60 feet and we hardly noticed we had descended that far (although of course we were checking our depth meters and watches as instructed).

The week following our course Scott completed the PADI Advanced Open Water Certification. He did four Adventure dives and completed the course work - all still at the Carib Inn. His four dives were a night dive, deep dive, peak performance buoyancy and a navigation dive. He really enjoyed all of these, especially the night dive.
Several weeks later Scott's brother Brent took the "Resort PADI course", a one day introduction to diving. He had Ralf as an Instructor as well (picture shows Ralf on the left and Brent) and had a wonderful experience. He had a brief classroom introduction, a short time in the pool and then a shallow dive in the morning off the Carib Inn. That afternoon he did a dive from the boat off Klein Bonaire. Two days later he did another dive with Scott and myself. Because he is still not certified in any way, he had to dive with the same outfit and stay with the dive master at all times. He took this colorful shot of the corals with his underwater camera. PS UPDATE - over the next month and a half Scott and I did a lot of diving. Scott did several more night dives and I joined him for one. My record depth now is 96 feet and we went on a specially planned dive to the salt piers together. This was like an underwater cathedral. The pillars were covered with colorful corals and branches of plants. the light shining through the rows of columns was magical.

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Klein Curacao




"Scott Free" has visited Klein Curacao twice now, once on the way back from Bonaire to Curacao with Sean and Sarah and again while returning to Bonaire with Scott's brother Brent and his wife Wilma. We picked up a mooring off the beautiful white beach and spent one night each time. This small flat island, one and one half miles long and just under one half mile across, is southeast of Curacao and is unpopulated. The skyline has three prominent features, a beautiful lighthouse and two wrecks, one of an old freighter (seen in the distance in the photo above left and in detail below) and the other a once lovely sailboat, only recently tossed up on this reef.


Several day boats bring visitors to the island but they are all gone by 4 PM so we had the island to ourselves. There are five substantial moorings installed and we were told to use these rather than risk damaging the coral by anchoring (our guide book did say it was possible to anchor in 12 - 20 feet in the sand south of the moorings). We snorkeled our mooring and it was strong enough for a boat much bigger than ours, in fact it was labeled "Insulinde", a large sailing ship often tied up at the dock in downtown Williamsted. We walked the beach and on paths over the island and enjoyed the solitude that night. With no lights at all on the island (the lighthouse is no longer working), the stars were really spectacular.

On the North Eastern point is a deserted Phosphate mine which was used in washing powders and was exported. It was closed in 1918 with the building of the oil refinery in Curacao. The beach houses and fishing shacks at the beginning of the path to the lighthouse are the remains of the mining village.

The trip from Bonaire is generally a fast downwind sail of about 27 miles and onward to Curacao is equally easy. Getting back from Curacao is more challenging. We had a hard directly upwind slog into choppy waves on the 13 mile trip from Spanish Waters to Klein Curacao. The next day we luckily had a close reach the whole way to Bonaire. But the stop at Klein really breaks up the upwind trip to Bonaire and is so lovely on it's own.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Christoffel National Park in Curacao




This park provides a protected environment for a large number of rare species like the white-tailed deer, cottontail rabbit, orchids and more. There are ruins of former plantations Savonet, Zevenbergen and Zorgvliet and an Indian site where Pre-Columbian drawings can be seen. The first of these was originally founded in the 1660s and rebuilt in 1806 after being burned down by John Murray, a pirate working for the British crown. Crops such as peanuts and sorghum were grown there but now it is all natural vegetation. We saw a number of interesting birds including the Crested Caracara (Warawara). Sean, Sarah, Scott and I got there as early in the morning as we could as we had a tough climb ahead, around 1000 feet up Saint Christoffel berg. Our rental car agreement stipulated that this park and the Beach parking lot at the Mambo restaurant were out of bounds for insurance coverage. We decided to take a chance with the park. The park ranger was surprised at this, informing us that they had good concrete roads installed, but we decided it was the car's low horsepower combined with the steep long ups and downs that caused the problems. At one point three of us had to walk quite a ways as the car couldn't make a hill.

The beginning of the trail was somewhat shaded and had lovely views (above left) but the top section was very steep and hot in the sun. The top was such a treat with 360 degree views and a stiff breeze. The hike took several hours and we all decided to take our lunch break in West Punt at the Playa Forti restaurant. Sean entertained us by jumping off the 40 foot cliff into the sea, several times. Caught here in mid space below right and in the water afterwards on the left.


After lunch we went back into the park and drove around the north side by the plantation house, Boka grandi (a north coast bay and beach where swimming is dangerous), and the caves, home to nectar/fruit eating bats and some insect eating bats (up to 600 mosquitos an hour - YAH!). The red Indian drawings found here (and in Bonaire) are calculated to be between 500 and 2000 years old (picture below left). A distant view of our "mountain" is below right.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Sean's Graduation



Sean's graduation from Dartmouth was on June 10 and our party at Josh's house in Newton the following Sunday. The weather wasn't perfect on graduation day but spirits were high none the less. Sean loved his four years in Hanover but looks forward to his two years ahead as a fellow with the Public Interest Research Group either in Washington or Boston. He'll know which later this summer.
Our daughter Zoe, husband George and sons Nicholas and Thomas flew out from California (picture below left). Scott's brother Brent, wife Wilma and her daughter Swandy came from NJ and my sister Paula from Maryland. Everyone is shown in the group shot below right.
After the wonderful party and family get together at Josh and Michal's home, Zoe and her family came up to Vermont for a visit. Nick and Tommy enjoyed the new tractor, walks and visit to the lake. We had a ball watching them.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Home in Vermont




We love our sailing life but we miss our family and friends back home a lot. Luckily we are able to return twice a year to catch up with everyone. This year we flew back in the middle of May and returned July 9th. During our months sailing from the Eastern Caribbean along the Venezuelan Coast to Bonaire and Curacao we sold our home in Vermont and bought another one. We left a power of attorney with our lawyer and instructions to pack and move us out of the old home and into a storage unit. The day after Heather flew back we moved into the new house over three days. We still had a lot of our posessions from our former home in Brookline in yet another storage facility in Massachusetts. Our son Sean helped Heather pick out furniture, mainly couches to fill in. It was a crazy busy first week back, but at the end of it, we had a most everything in place.
Our first company arrived Memorial Day weekend. Our son Josh and his family (Michal and the children, Daniel (4), Ariel (2) and Maya (7 months) from Newton (Daniel and Ariel are with me above left and Josh and Michal in our new kitchen on the right), our son James from Brooklyn (shown here mugging it up in our beer hat from Carnival in Grenada), and Sean, still at Dartmouth all were together with us in our new home. Everyone approved the move.
The following week we played host to a large and changing group of Sean's friends from Dartmouth. People came and went and everyone was delightful. Scott and I so loved meeting Sean's friends and watching the fun. Luckily the weather cooperated and everyone swam in the lake and soaked in the hot tub. And of course ate huge communal meals. The move from our tiny 1100 sq ft house to 3500 sq ft has made this a lot easier.

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Provisioning

Among cruiser couples there are generally conceded to be "pink" jobs and "blue" jobs. The former usually include provisioning, cooking, inventory management and cleaning. The latter almost always includes engine and machine maintenance/installation, plumbing, electrical work and most winching/hauling. In our case we both do communications (SSB, VHF and email), navigation and steering, taking equal watches, but Heather drives the boat into marinas and anchorages while Scott runs around the deck handling ropes/anchor and giving helpful advice.
"How do you plan on shopping and menus for weeks or months on a boat?", is a common question. Many cruising women I know write out menus for their voyages and some even cook up a lot of the dishes in advance. These are then put in portions and frozen. We don't have a freezer so this isn't an option for us.
"What - you don't have a freezer on that big boat!"
Well, I really never used a freezer on land ,other than for ice and ice cream. We do miss the ice cream but we have a ice maker on board, so it hasn't been a problem yet. Putting one in is a big job because the beautiful wood work and counters in the galley would have to be all redone. So I thought I'd add my two cents worth on the subject of provisioning in this entry. Skip it if you're not interested!

Like at home the first job is to buy all the basics. We carry stocks of these following for six months. Common to most would be; flour (white and whole wheat, regular and bread types), corn meal, sugar, baking powder & soda, yeast, vegetable and extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, peanut butter, spices, coffee (I bring 2.5 lb bags of my favorite French roast beans down with me from the States), teas, dried fruit, dried beans, rice (brown, white and risotto), and many kinds of pasta. Dry goods include cereal, crackers, long life bread, couscous, bread crumbs, nuts, and dried soup mixes. Most of these things can be replaced but at the major islands or cities but the price will be generally higher and the selection poorer.
Canned goods keep for a long time and are necessary for emergency purposes. Often used types are tuna, salmon, shrimp, crab, sardines, anchovies, clams, smoked oysters, canned tomatoes and sauces/paste, mushrooms, and beef/chicken broth. Jars of pesto, marinated artichokes, bruschetta and chutney make special meals easy. Polenta in a tube makes a quick elegant touch. Tuna steaks and chicken breasts now come all cooked in individual vacuum packed foil servings (pretty expensive so kept for emergencies). We happen to treat ourselves traditionally after long passages with corn beef or roast beef hash (with eggs) so I always have them on hand. Occasionally we'll open a can of soup, corn, chick peas, black beans, artichokes etc. We have another supply of canned vegetables, corned beef, ham and fruits in case I run out of the fresh ones. This has happened very rarely but recently during our month in totally undeveloped islands off Venezuela, they were a god send. These are all non perishable goods.
Milk is included in this category: UHT dairy products are wonderful things. We have quarts of milk, pints and half pints of heavy cream and cooking cream from France in abundance. We have dried milk as well in case of emergency and for making bread. Yes we can make bread, both the old fashioned way and in our bread machine. I sometimes make easy breads like corn bread and banana bread but until that month in the out islands we found the local breads have been quite good and inexpensive. In the San Blas islands where there are no stores we will have it going again frequently.
There are a number of products that make cooking and eating well easier. A favorite example for me is Zatarin's mixes; gumbo, jambalaya, dirty rice, salmon & crab cake mixes etc. With fresh onions, celery, peppers, tomatoes and any meat/fish available, these are wonderful and quick. Tasty Bite makes a large selection of already cooked Indian foods in foil packets that only have to be heated. I add them to leftovers and serve over rice. We bought a selection of ready made sauces like beurre blanc, trois poivre, sweet and sour, lemon pepper in Trinidad and Martinique that quickly turn whatever we're having into gourmet. Wolfs Kashi & farfalle, Near East mixes etc. are all handy. I also like to have some hors d'oeuve type mixes like salmon & crab cake, falafel, baccala fritters, hummus, black bean dip etc.

The second category is perishable but long lasting fruits and vegetables. We always have onions, garlic, carrots, and potatoes on board. When I can find them we add winter squash, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, plantains, apples and starting out, green bananas. These can all manage out of the frig if necessary and some always stay there. We hang most in net hammocks in the V berth. Some are in those green long life bags in the frig. Parmesano Regiano is sort of in this category. I bring a huge chunk with me from the States and it keeps for months in the back of the frig.

Next are the fresh products that make up my usual shopping list. Always included and usually available everywhere are lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, green onions and cabbage (mostly for cole slaw after the lettuce is gone)Fresh seasoning packets (shown in lower right hand corner of the picture here in a local outdoor market) which include small peppers, green onions, thyme, and whatever other fresh herb they have are sold everywhere. Many places I can get zucchini, broccoli, green beans, cauliflower, purple top turnips, beets and local vegetables like dasheen, breadfruit, callaloo and other greens - sometimes spinach. When in season (and on certain islands) we get pineapple, papaya, mangoes and other local fruits.

And then there is meat and/or fish. On the small islands there is little and when there is, it's frozen, unless, in the case of fish, you can buy from a fisherman or a fish market (photo here is of the selection at a small fish market). Sometimes we can get fresh chicken legs (heaven knows where the breasts go but they are hardly ever seen in a store) or chunks of pork. Every kind of cheap meat and poultry parts are available though, chicken backs and feet, beef or pork innards. Local beef is often only available in frozen chunks, identified as "Clod",but after much experience, only edible in stew. Larger islands have supermarkets with varying stock. Some, like Grenada, Marguarita, Trinidad or St. Lucia, have a wide variety of goods similar to a normal market in the US. The french islands are different. They are part of France and we traveled up to Martinique partially to replenish our stocks of delicacies; cheeses of every kind, pates, cold cuts and lovely meats, jars of cornichons, olives, pesto, etc.
Most markets carry a few cheddar type cheeses; Anchor cheddar from New Zealand and Cracker Barrel from the US, Philadelphia Cream cheese, and of course, American Cheese Food Product (we skip that). Sometimes I can get some feta cheese or Camembert in a small wheel. Eggs are almost always there. We try and get local eggs, unrefrigerated. They last a long time and don't need to be kept in the frig. Hummus is now often available, but cottage cheese or sour cream is hard to find outside of the big islands.
It is now possible to get whole wheat bread often on even the smallest islands. These little stores will have only a few loaves and we need to get there early to get one. Up in the Bahamas the breads were often sweet. The next size small market will have local bread and a selection of packaged sliced breads, mostly white. In busy harbor areas or near marinas even the small stores will have frozen bagels and some multi grain breads. Again the big island supermarkets have excellent selections, although, unlike the States, they do not have dates on them. The french islands are of course bread heaven - boulangeries sell baguettes, croissants, and pan de chocolat, among much else.

Liquid refreshments are usually easy to find everywhere. Soft drinks are loved by all islanders. We don't drink them often so we keep a few for guest on board only. We do stock up on tonic water whenever we can get it. Everyone does. Scott loves fruit juices and rum punch so we always have a good stock of pineapple juice and when we can get them; orange, mango, guava etc as well. Goya makes great products available in the north and later Orchard does in liter foil boxes (they don't add sugar to theirs). We never have enough of these. In addition we've discovered fruit concentrates available in bottles - locally produced. They come in flavors such as grenadine (necessary for rum punches), tamarind, guava, mixed essence, sorrel and mauby (very popular in Trinidad and tastes a little like root beer or Dr. Pepper). Angostura bitters are also necessary for rum punch. I might as well give you approximately my recipe.
RUM PUNCH - combine 1 quart or liter of pineapple juice with 2 or 3 cups of other juices above, 2- 4 oz of Grenadine syrup, a good shake of Bitters and if you have any of the concentrates (not Mauby) you can add a little of those also or instead of the extra juices. Stir well. Fill a glass with ice, add as much rum as you like and then fill up with punch mixture. Stir. Grate a fresh nutmeg over the top. Float some dark rum on top if you really need a punch! Voila! If you only have pineapple juice that works fine. You can add Coconut Rum along with regular rum - marvelous! If you can get a hold of Punch Coco at one of the local markets, add that in. I personally love it plain over ice with the same amount of dark rum.

Besides rum, we usually have gin, wine, and beer. Most alcholic beverages are available everywhere. In a tiny store with maybe two heads of lettuce and one loaf of bread, they'll have soft drinks and liquor - and OF COURSE beer. If you go through the Dominican Republic you can't buy enough Presidente. That was our favorite - plus it comes in big bottles. If you get to Margaurita you won't buy enough beer - you'll want to sink your boat, it's that cheap. Cans are of course better in general, except those tiny 6 once cans of Heineken (they've got to be kidding). But really all the local beers are pretty good.

Wine is also available everywhere but a limited selection and expensive. The first french island for most people is St. Martin and everyone goes a little crazy, if of course, they love wine. It is possible to buy nice table wine for 2 or 3 euros each. It's also great to have a bottle to bring over to another boat when invited for drinks or dinner. We never bought enough and always ran out before the next french island! Our last trip to Martinique before heading to the western Caribbean we bought several cases. Fairly good wines are also available in 3 or 5 liter boxes. If you aren't familiar with the winery, ask around before committing yourself - they vary in quality.

Cleaning and paper products are another category of provisioning. We have a whole closet of cleaning products. It is remarkable how many things there are on a boat that need special cleaning and there are many products for each. I was so naive that when I saw a fellow cruiser cleaning her stainless steel, it was the first time I realized it needed cleaning. Once you see that rust, you always see it and another task is born. It's hard to resist trying another cleaning product but there is only so much room! This is too big a subject for coverage here. Stocking up on toilet paper, napkins and paper towels when they are cheap is great. Still it is possible to buy them almost everywhere and they take up a lot of room. Everyone develops a few favorite products - if you do, buy a lot. I love swifter dust cloths, Pledge orange oil wipes, Joy detergent, Murphy's Oil Soap, Windex, huge containers of vinegar, and lots of sponges (not always easy to find down here surprisingly). Zip lock bags, freezer quality better, are absolutely necessary and in every size.
Well if anyone in Blog land is out there looking for information on provisioning, I hope this is interesting.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Lunch at Bistro Le Clochard


Scott and I rarely splurge on a expensive restaurant but when we saw the white sail canopies (seen on the far left in the picture here) of "Bistro Le Clochard" we threw the budget to the wind. The restaurant's terrace is visible from the floating Emma bridge which crosses the narrow channel entrance of Williamsted harbour. It is tucked into Fort Rif and the rooms are within the 19th Century vaulting of the old Dutch fort guarding one side of the entrance.
The entrance is into a lovely greenhouse but we were headed for the dramatic tables overlooking the water. The waves were crashing against the walls of the fort and some of the tables were not available as a result - we got a dry location with an amazing view. Not long after our arrival two tugs exited the harbor and then proceeded to escort a huge freighter right past us.


We watched as the bridge slowly opened. The end of the bridge has two giant outboard motors; they power the 16 floating pontoon boats and the bridge above them in a semi circle, ending up parallel to the shore. This was built in 1888 and was recently overhauled and restored. While it is out of service free ferries called "ponchi" take passengers over the channel for free.

The food was terrific too - French and Swiss. We even treated ourselves to a beautifully arranged dessert of local strawberries and cream. That's one portion shown in the picture! After that Scott and I had to take a long walk around the city - hardly a difficult task.

Shopping is a big pastime in Willemstad - all the traditional European and American higher end chains are represented. Our favorite however was the local markets and outdoor craft artisans.

Friday, May 11, 2007

Curacao




Curacao is the largest and most populated of the ABCs. It covers 171 square miles and 134,000 inhabitants. It was claimed for the Spanish by Alonso de Ojeda in 1499 and occupied by the Dutch in 1634. It's natural large protected harbour made it a center for the slave trade until slavery was abolished in 1863. Affluence from this thriving business built the beautiful architecture of Willemstad, a mixture of Dutch and Spanish styles. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and very lovely.

In 1914 oil was dicovered at Maracaibo Basin and the Royal Dutch Shell built a large oil refinery in Curacao, this was turned over to the local government in the mid 1980s and now is leased to Venezuela. The oil developement caused serious descrepancies among the social groups on the island resulting in large scale rioting and protests in May of 1969. This resulted in more control over the political process by the majority Afro-Caribbean populace.

Tourism is becoming more important and big hotel developments are evident. Our marina is part of a combination hotel/condo/private home complex. At this point only the marina and some private homes are finished (very expensive ones). We're located at the end of a long private road and traveling to the city takes some planning. We caught a ride with one of our cuiser friends into the city and took the local bus back to the gate house. There we waited until a security guard came to drive us down to the marina.

This image on the right and some in the previous blog entry were taken around the marina and show the semi-arid vegetation and table topped hills that reminded us of the US southwest. The remaining lumps of other hills, worn down by occasional downpours and wind litter the area. The sunrise from our boat on our first morning here was really lovely.