Thursday, September 03, 2015

Wurzburg, Germany

The bridge was alive with young people enjoying glasses (in nice
glasses by the way) of wine and beer. 
We left Ulm at around 3 pm following Thomas and Uli who showed us the way to the highway north. But about an hour later we ran into a traffic jam. Far away from a city it was evidently due to construction. So we decided to take off into the countryside. Scott directed me using his Android phone as our car Navigator just wanted to take us back to the expressway. It was fun to see some small towns and farms but the roads were very confusing and we ended up at a dead end at one point. So we headed back to the main road and happily had passed the obstruction. A Navigation system is a must in Europe as the signs are difficult to read. Ours brought us through a mass of confusing streets to our hotel, Hotel Gruner Baum. We had a very nice spacious room on the second floor with a opening window. Although it had been a very hot day, there was enough of a breeze and it was cooling off nicely.
Looking up with one of the statues from the bridge to the fortress
Another view of the bridge and fortress in the evening
It was difficult to force ourselves out again for dinner. But once we walked just a block to the river it was all worth while. There was the Old Main Bridge into the city center, with the Fortress Marienberg up on the hill. It was spectacular. And the bridge was alive with young people enjoying wine and beer in real glasses - sold from booths outside the restaurants. Imagine that in the States - no way. There was a big line and a long wait near the river so we walked just a short way into the lovely square and found a outside seat at a good restaurant in the Rathaus (Town Hall). It was a great people watching place and our meals were simple and nice. Both of us tried different local wurst specialties. Scott ordered it cooked in wine with vegetables and it was great. Afterwards we walked around the river and then were off to bed.
The next day was beautiful, bright and sunny. We had a nice breakfast and then checked out as we wanted to spend the whole day seeing the town. We had found a good free parking spot not far away.
Wurzburg has been here since the Bronze Age when a refuge castle stood on the hill. Celts, Alamanni and the Franks ruled until the 7th C. It was converted to Christianity by Irish missionaries in 686. An interesting side note - the largest peace time mass trials were held here from 1626 to 1631 and between 600 and 900 alleged witches were burnt! On 16 March 1945 90 percent of the city was destroyed by 225 bombers. The medieval center city was totally destroyed by firestorm and over 5,000 people perished. the city was rebuilt largely by women as there were almost no men around. The U.S. occupied the city and our last troops were withdrawn only in 2008.
But it is a beautiful city now and it's hard to believe most of it is reconstructed. Happily some great parts of the Residenz were saved by well built roofs. We took an English tour and it is really gorgeous! We were sorry to have to leave later in the afternoon. Next on the Heidelberg!

Daytime view
The Town Hall Square
The old Main Bridge with the Fortress Marienbad from further
down the river. The bridge was built between 1473 - 1543.
Baroque Harbor Crane from 1773 - it still works!
Looking down one of the pedestrian only
streets towards Wurzburg Cathedral
There were many charming shops
In the Market Square was what looked like a
May Pole to me
And it was Farmer's Market Day
Look at this selection of cheese - Yummo!
And beautiful fruits
And vegetables
With Wurzburg Cathedral looming above
The Julius Spital Baroque Hospital, Julius Spital is the second
largest winery in Germany.
The courtyards and gardens were beautiful. I love the blue sheep!
The Residenz, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The front of the Cathedral, Romanesque and built
from 1040 to 1225
One of the charming squares throughout the city
All filled with bicycles! Everyone bicycles here
and there are bike paths EVERYWHERE!
We had a wonderful lunch overlooking the River
We sat up on the top terrace at the Alte
Mainmuhle Restauant 
Scott had the best view of the Fortress but I enjoyed watching
the river
You went through this tunnel to enter the fortress!
And then another fortress was inside with gate, bridge and moat
The moat is now a garden
Formal gardens spread out along the terraces overlooking the
city and vineyards
That's the Danube River below and the Old Main Bridge on the
left
I loved this sign - in town not the fortress.

Wednesday, September 02, 2015

Ulm - Part II, Fischervietel (Fishermen's Quarter)

Another shot of Thomas, Heather, Uli and Scott
We loved the Fishermen's Quarter! It was so charming and quaint - and photogenic. With Thomas and Uli we explored every corner. But soon our appetites returned and they took us up to the top of a modern building overlooking the Ulm Minster to the Bella Vista Restaurant where we enjoyed a delicious meal with a "beautiful view". Afterwards it was really hard to say our good-byes. It was such a special visit and we'll miss them. Happily we'll all be together again at Tortugal Marina or cruising later in the year. Thank you so much!!!
Next we're off to Wurzburg in my next post.
I took a lot of photos here it was so charming

The Butcher and the Farmer barter for the pig.
This little statue was in the Pig Market square.


The River Blau wends it's way through this district. This house
is it's own island!

Many footbridges cross over

Scott and Thomas on a brick and stone bridge

Some of the buildings are residential and others, hotels and cafes

Nearby is a remnant of the old city walls, along the Danube.

This iconic building looks this way from one side

And rather precarious from another

Flower boxes adorn most windows and terraces

In this case an old bicycle has become a window box itself



The Ulm Sparrow appears in many guises

The view from the terrace at Bellavista Restaurant where we
had an excellent lunch

They had beautiful healthy salads nicely
presented

Our wonderful hosts. It was so hard to say "Good-bye"!

Tuesday, September 01, 2015

We get a tour of Ulm - Part One

The Rathaus, the Town Hall with it's brilliantly colored murals,
built in 1370 - the day started out quite cloudy

Another side of the Hall with a large outdoor cafe - not busy today
The Ulm Minster with it's tallest in the world church steeple,
530 ft. high
After that lovely breakfast we waited awhile for the rain to abate and then set off for Ulm. Situated near where the rivers Blau and Iller join the Danube, Ulm has been a crossroad market center since it was founded in 850. But evidence of settlement from the late Neolithic Period has been found in the city proper, around 5,000 BC. Because it was fire bombed extensively in 1944 the city is a mix of restored (and survived) ancient buildings and some very interesting modern architecture.
We started our tour in the market square with the historic town hall and then walked through the pedestrian only streets to the Ulm Minster, built 1377 to 1891. This is a beautiful church and luckily escaped the damage done by bombing in WWII. The 5 stained windows of the apse date back to the 14th and 15th C. But what I enjoyed most was the life like oak carvings though out the choir by Jorg Syrlin the Elder, also 15th C, they were amazing.
 Uli dashed into the Tourist office and bought us a lovely book on the city with great photos.
We learned that Albert Einstein was born here and took a walk down to his memorial and then onto a section of the old city walls. In my next post, we'll visit the Fischervietel (Fisherman's Quarter)!
Scott and I in front - I imagine there's always some reconstruction
going on.

Photo shows the church in (left to right) 1543, 1890 and 2015

The central nave looking up to the high alter

One of the beautiful carving in the choir stalls

Sculptures on one side of the nave are women and the other,
men.

And here's one of the men. They all look like real people.
The high alter with it's 5 ancient windows

According to legend during the building of the Minster a very
large beam was needed but wouldn't fit through the city gates.
People were about to tear down the gate when they noticed a
sparrow carrying a straw for it's nest. It turned it from crosswise
to lengthwise to fit and aha! light dawned. This statue used to
be on the roof of the Minster but has been moved indoors (a more
weather resistant one is up there now.

Lego version of the church - Lego Land is not
far away!

This monument marks the birthplace of Albert
Einstein. The house was destroyed during the
fire bombing of the city in 1944.

Thomas, Heather, Scott and Uli up on the city walls