Saba, a Caribbean Shangrala

Scott and I spent two nights at Saba our first trip through the Eastern Caribbean and it has remained one of our favorite islands. It is unlike any other island! See our previous blog entry for a lot more historical information about the island. But I will add or repeat a few facts here. Saba has 5 sq. miles of land and it's volcano Mt. Scenery is the highest point in the Kingdown of the Netherlands. It has 1350 residents and 300 medical students when the Saba University of Medicine is in session. There is a lot of new home construction on the island, possibly second homes for off islanders. As a result there appear to be a lot of new residents, mostly young couples with children. Many of them were playing and swimming down at the landing when we arrived.
Our first afternoon we checked into the country (pretty easy as they are associated with St. Martin, part of the Netherlands Antilles as is St. Eustatious (Stacia), Bonaire, Curacao and Aruba. Saba has chosen to become part of the Netherlands and is scheduled to do so this October. Some of their leaders have been trying to have it both ways recently but I believe that due to their hesitancy to give up power. Eighty six percent of the population voted to join Holland.
We first organized our trip the following day. As we planned to hike the volcano we arranged a taxi to take us up to the trail head and back. Scott and I were familiar with the steep roads and trails from our last trip. The volcano is over 3,000 feet high and feels pretty much straight up so starting higher up is GOOD. After that we started out up the road to the first community of Bottom. Pink flowers cascaded down the hills in the protected valley where the road climbs, but above that they appear desolate where they are exposed to the ocean wind. Goats, chickens and roosters scramble all over.
The road is an engineering marvel all built by islanders and designed by a local man. It corkscrews up the hill with lots of tight turns. After only about 20 minutes a car stopped to offer us a ride. Scott and I took it and the kids were then able to run up (well not quite but they were moving a lot faster than us). Once they joined us we wandered all over looking at the charming homes, streets and alleys. Farther from the ocean the hills are covered with vegetation and short trees. It's a jungle up there!
A beautiful Catholic church was decorated with murals around the alter featuring obviously local people depicted along with religious scenes. For example in the picture on the left look for the two charming children taking their first communion on the right above the arched door. All three of the villages are hobbit like cute. Most of the homes are white with red roofs and many with green trim. Everyone has a garden. All too soon the sun started to set and we walked down the road. Again in two groups we dinghied back to our boat for dinner.
The next day we'll be climbing the volcano, but for that, check out the next blog!

St. Martin; Sean & Courtney arrive

We arrived in St. Martin's with plenty of time before Sean and Courtney's arrival. Our good friends Linda and Ed (shown here below right) were there on "Dreamtime" already. It had been years since we've seen them and had been planning to get together for some time so it was a lovely reunion.

We left Georgetown in the Bahamas together almost five years ago and sailed down the eastern Caribbean with them the first time. We had several days of visiting and then they came over for breakfast the first morning of Sean and Courtney's visit to meet them.
We anchored at Simpson's Bay on the dutch side just in front of the drawbridge to the Lagoon and then entered the next day.

We were in a line up of many boats, many of them super yachts (that's Heather skippering through the drawbridge above). The previous time we anchored in Marigot Bay on the French side, a cheaper alternative, but as Sean & Courtney were flying in to St. Maartin, we made the decision to pay up, about $70 including the bridge fees.
We anchored not far off the airport. During our whole time there we had many mostly short showers and a number of beautiful rainbows (see above left). Scott brought the dinghy into the Turtle Pier bar/restaurant and walked over to pick them up. It was an unusual experience for them to walk out of the airport with their baggage and into a dinghy!

Luckily it was a nice night and they were soon at the boat eating a good dinner. This was a four day holiday Easter weekend and we thought Customs & Immigration wouldn't be open so the next day we exited the drawbridge and anchored in Simpson Bay so we could swim and snorkel. The water wasn't very clear but we got to see quite a few fish and some fun squid! Of course our very pale guests slathered themselves with sun tan lotion but even that couldn't protect Sean totally. The curse of being a red head. Good news the next day when we found Customs open and were able to clear out. The anchor was right up and we were off.

We had planned to head to St. Bart's but the weather was looking so good as we set sail that we turned the wheel around and headed for Saba. Boats can only visit Saba when it's relatively calm as there is no protected harbor on the island. The land basically goes straight up from the ocean. Only about 30 years ago the islanders built a small protected landing

spot and built a road from there up to the four small villages; Bottom, Windwardside, Hells Gate and St. John's. Most visiting boats pick up one of the deep water moorings either off the landing or on the west side near the old customs house. Saba can be seen from St. Martin on a clear day

and it looks like you're going to get there any minute until you finally realize how tall and steep it is - and how far away. You can see the rugged cliffs here in the two photos. In the second look in the water on the left and see how small the super yacht looks in contrast. We anchored in the second area at first and in two shifts dinghied down

to the landing. This turned out to be a little too exciting! Going downwind wasn't too bad but the trip back was rough. By this time too the boat was bouncing around pretty wildly. We decided to move the boat down to the area off the landing site. Courtney and I waited on land while Scott and Sean went back to move the boat. There was only one mooring left and after they left we noticed two boats sailing over from Stacia. It was a race to the mooring.
We stared at the edge of the cliff willing "Scott Free" to show herself. The other boats were clearly winning. Oh no!
And then they passed the mooring by! Thank goodness they decided to check out the other moorings first - poor guys. Our men charged around the island (that's them passing the breakwater here) and grabbed that empty mooring. It was a much more protected spot and much closer for the dinghy.
More about Saba and the rest of our trip in another posting!

Brief Stays in Antigua & St. Kitts

We left Deshais, Guadeloupe very early in the morning for the trip to Antigua. It was a really nice sail and great to have the engine off totally for a change. We had hoped to go to Montserrat but the volcano danger level was up and the wind dirction and force prohibited a comfortable anchorage at the island's only "bay". So for the second time we've missed visiting this unusual island! Last time it blew up while when we were only 20 miles away on route for a visit there (see blog entry May 2006).
So instead of an overnight passage down to St. Martin we decided to do three long day trips. The first night we anchored at English Harbor, Antigua near the entrance. This is a beautiful spot but pretty crowded. We were just off the entrance channel but in sight of two old English forts. The top two photos show first looking east to Freeman's Bay with the moon already in the sky and the second looking south to Charlotte's Point.
We stopped in Antigua unexpectedly when that volcano blew and stayed at Jolly Harbor further north and west. We took the bus to English Harbor and walked all around. It's an impressive historic sight and quite charming. We were sorry not to have more time here this time.
The next morning we left early and had another great sail to St. Kitts, arriving at the south end and with good light for The Narrows, the passage between it and Nevis. We anchored in Major's Bay, the only boat. Their is a car ferry dock at the end which closed down early and after that there were no lights or development in sight. We sat quietly and watched the light change as the sun started to set. That's a photo at that time looking past the east point of the bay to Nevis in the distance. Then a movement caught my eye on the shore. At first I thought it was a group of goats - BUT oh no, it was monkeys! A good size group of monkeys passed down the slope, along the water, stopping to play in one of the few trees, and then out towards the point. We watched entranced for over an hour. We had no idea that monkeys were wild on St. Kitts. Cool! I took a bunch of photos but it's really hard to pick out the monkeys. The one shot here shows at least one of them clearly up in the tree.
It was a quiet beautiful night with a full moon and a pretty morning as well. We had another all day sail to St. Martin, arriving late in the day. We anchored outside the lagoon entrance at Simpson Bay and although their was quite a bit of swell, slept pretty well. We're really looking forward to seeing our old friends Ed and Linda on "Dreamtime" and having our youngest son Sean and his friend Courtney visit. More on that in the next blog entry.

Deshais, Guadeloupe

We checked out of Les Saintes and filled up with water at the Yacht Club before leaving. This is the only place we've actually done this (did it also four years ago) but it's quite easy. You tie up at their distinctive mooring, dinghy ashore to pay, and then fill your tanks from the hose tied to the mooring. Our sail today took us down the west coast of Guadeloupe to Deshais, a wonderful little town at the northwest end. On the way we were buzzed by hundreds of jet skis!

It looked like a scene from a James Bond Movie. Waves of people standing hunched over their machines raced down the coast. After one group of twenty or so passed we'd look back and there on the horizon was another approaching. A helicopter flew up and down watching them and taking photos. We felt sorry for the few stragglers that struggled along after, most with engine problems but seemingly determined to finish whatever the timing.

This is a large harbor with good holding and pretty good protection. We had strong memories of coffee and croissants in the morning there watching the town wake up. This time we couldn't find that cafe but the food was just as good in the more modern version on the main street. Unfortunately there was no view but lots of friendly local habitues. One fun coincidence was the Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream freezer prominent in the cafe (see the picture).

We had another morning hike planned and wanted an early start. Chris Doyle had recommended it (the hike not the early start). You go north along the waterside street to the end and find a path leading up the hill, over it and down the other side to a very long white crescent beach waiting there. We walked about half way and spent hours swimming and reading in the shade of the trees. There is one beach bar on the south end and a whole village of them at the north end. It looked like a good place to have lunch but it was too early as we passed through.

At this end also was the end of a fresh water river that was at that moment dammed up by the beach. A group of young people were swimming and kyacking there. Instead of retracing our steps along the beach we passed through the restaurants, out the narrow road to the main highway. It was a pleasant walk back along it and over the hill into Deshais. That's a map of the area above on the left. The trail is in yellow, the white is the road and the "You are here" the restaurant court.

That evening we strolled along the beach road looking at the restaurants and their menus. It wasn't the menu or the ambience that made us make our decision. It was a charming 8 year old girl who lured us in, played games with us and made us laugh a lot! The lobster was a little dry but the evening was a hit!

It's Heaven in Les Saintes!

It's been four years since we were last in Les Saintes but we've always thought of it as one of our favorites. And our good friends Benno & Marlena on "Diesel Duck" were joining us there - again! It's been several years since we saw them last (in Shelter Bay, Panama) and since then they've circumnavigated South America. They are one of the few trawlers to round Cape Horn with only a couple on board.

That's "Diesel Duck here with Marlena and Benno on the bow waving to us. This is a seaworthy vessel for sure, but terribly cute too! They completed a world circumnavigation in a sailboat many years ago and then went back to work in Canada for years. There they bought hull #1 of this design and completed the additional work themselves.

They were part of the group that left Georgetown, Bahamas together four years ago and most of whom have stayed friends since:"Dreamtime", "Casa del Mar", and "Neriera" were also part of that flotilla. Marlena & Benno had just spent time with Linda & Ed on "Dreamtime" and we were meeting up with them next in St. Martin.

It was a fast reach sailing from Dominica - a real pleasure! The charming red roofed town on the largest of the island group circles a well protected harbor. This is a real fisherman's town and hundreds of colorful boats line the beaches. Nets drying in the sun frame the view below. The bakery opens very early and Scott was off before 7 to pick up the morning's croissants.

It's hard not to pick up several other items there, at least a baguette! The grocery stores are small but between them we managed most of our needs. Walking through the small but charming town is fun with, during the day, lots of people over from Guadeloupe on the ferry. In the evenings it's quieter but still there are lots of different choices for a nice dinner.

Marlena joined us for a mornings walk over to NNN bay on the windward side. This small harbor is protected on almost all sides with a good entrance in past the reefs but is boats are prohibited from using it. There is a public beach and camping there and they want to keep it pristine. It is possible to walk around the narrow rocky beach at the end and swim the shallow inlet to the island that lies opposite the long sand beach. A prominent trail crosses both peaks and provides lovely views.


We changed out of our wet clothes after a fresh water shower (1 Euro) behind trees and then had a great lunch at the small restaurant up the hill to the right just before the entrance to the park. The 3 course "menu" is very reasonable at lunch with several choices of appetizer, main course and dessert.

A Day with Martin Carriere

We called Martin Carriere "Providence" (carriere@hotmail.com, cell 767-245-2700, home 767-445-3008 or call him on VHF 16) as soon as we arrived to book a trip with him. He's featured promently in Chris Doyle's Guide to the Leeward Islands and we had a wonderful day with him last time we were in Dominica. That time we did the Indian River in the early morning and then switched to his van for a trip across the island and down the east coast. We saw the cold sulpher springs, the red rocks by the crashing sea and had a great swim between a river and a beach.



But our favorite part of being with Martin is learning about all the plants and birds that abound here. You're always munching or smelling something with Martin. The variety of herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables that grow everywhere is amazing!
Heather and Don of "Asseance" and Smitty, "The Mighty Yachtee", joined us for the trip. We stopped at the Saturday Market in Portsmouth first and then drove north on the west coast past the Medical School complex and Rollo Head. Then we turned inland and went straight up into the mountains with lovely views behind us over the sea. An artisan had set up shop at a viewing spot and was creating his bead and ceremic pieces. The beaded curtains were really lovely and we wished we had more room on the boat to purchase some.

Our destination was a beautiful waterfall at the end of a trail that meandered through a working farm and then along and through a small stream. All along the way we learned about the way of life here both of the people, the wildlife and the plants. Need a snack? Martin picked up grapefruit from the ground, peeled it and cut it up for us - sweet and juicy. How about some coconut milk? His machete is always with him.


The path was easy but crossing the streams was difficult if you didn't have waterproof shoes. Those who did helped those who didn't. The waterfall itself was very impressive but it now enclosed in a chain link fence to prevent people from swimming there. It is presently the water source for a downstream village. Martin told us this is being changed and the pool may be available in the future. Meanwhile our next destination was to a nearby river and a deep pool to swim in.

It was a fun day as always. The nicest part is being with Martin! He's a knowledgeable guide and has an engaging personality. We look forward to our next visit.

On to Dominica!

This is our second visit to Dominica and we remember the previous one very fondly. After the water parched islands we've been in recently this is a treat to the eye and nose - so green! The profile is much like St. Vincent's with steep mountains and valleys everywhere, but without the security concerns. Of course it's still important to "lift and lock" (your dinghy) at night, but there is a night watch run by the local guides and we didn't feel the need to lock ourselves in.

The town of Portsmouth isn't terribly prosperous but people generally have a lot of pride in their homes and however small, they are well kept. Flowers are in everyone's yard and people look happy and well fed. North of town is the large medical school

with over 1200 students. This is a much more developed area but still low key compared to most other islands. There are no huge hotels or resorts on Dominica although plenty of charming small ones. The beaches are lovely but not white. The unspoiled interior is a highlight here - many waterfalls, including a hot one and a boiling lake, sulfur springs and lots of trail for exploring.
Walking leisurely through the small town there is lots to see. Many of the homes have individual touches or are all out unusual. See the photo above of the pink shell
incrusted home! The small shack below it is so different but just as neat and obviously loved. Notice the pair of shoes sitting quietly on the steps!
The detail of another home shows the more restrained use of shells for design. The white tent visable in the trees is part of an elaborate tree house right on the beach whose owner is an artist.

There is some excellent diving here and we happily organized a two tank dive with Cabrits Dive Center for Sunday. Our first dive was off Toucari Point and included a swim through a narrow cave with two entrances. I was really nervous about this as I suffer from occasional claustrophobia. So I got right behind the dive master and followed him in quickly before I could think about it too much. As he had promised, once in I could see light up ahead and that really helped, because it was a tight fit.

The coral and rock formations were really beautiful on both dives. There were lots of fish, although not many larger ones as they still allow fishing here. We saw a sting ray and a moray eel. The second dive had another cave and a long narrow cleff in the rock that we swam through. This was different scenery underwater than we had experienced in Bonaire and Carriacou - very dramatic. Hopefully Dominica will create a Marine park here soon and completely protect the area. Cabrits is a very professional outfit and had a big comfortable dive boat (they have a smaller one as well). Several people we talked to on the boat come here every year for their vacation. They are a five star PADI facility (www.cabritsdive.com)

There are only a few small markets in Portsmouth although they have most of the basics. On Saturday morning however there's an excellent market with a large variety of fresh produce, bread and spices. Your coconut can be husked while you wait (only a minute).